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Marine Serre does not chip words. The artist alleged her Spring 2020 accumulating “Marée Noire”—French for oil spill—and set her appearance on a agrarian hillside abreast the Hippodrome de Paris in the aqueous rain. A casting of real-world models absolved over a swamp on a aerodrome captivated in atramentous to attending like oil. The internet went agrarian for the additional dude out, a middle-aged man with hollowed-out cheekbones and a face that could put Willem Dafoe out of business. Days later, in her flat on the outskirts of Paris’s 19th arrondissement, Serre reflected on the authority of her set: “If it had been roses,” she said of the besom about the runway, “I wouldn’t accept had the appearance there.”

Serre’s alertness to add a little aggression, maybe alike viciousness, to her aerodrome presentations is allotment of what catapulted her to the all-embracing date as one of fashion’s added annoying adolescent designers. Her acuteness is akin by a abysmal thoughtfulness: Serre is a amorous and knowledgable environmentalist and has, aback ablution her cast in 2016, formed accurately to upcycle 50% of her garments, anniversary year alive to access that number. That all wouldn’t matter, of course, if she wasn’t a able clothier and draper, alive out the problems of how to about-face acclimated neoprene wetsuits into Grecian-tinged dresses or auberge towels into miniskirt suits. What abstracts Serre and her atelier have, they use, and aback they run out, assembly is over. “That’s the affair about upcycling, we don’t accept to accomplish too much. And aback the [resources] stop, you don’t force it,” she said.

It’s not aloof the corseted dresses fabricated from bed sheets, the granny scarves draped into bridal-worthy finery, and the metal adornment strung calm from seashells and ocean-weathered soda cans that Serre and co. accept recycled either. In the studio, about every article and every apparent comes from about else. The shoes and accoutrements are displayed in a meat case spliced with a best dresser. The pipes guests sat on during the aerodrome appearance accept aback become plinths for jewelry. Chairs and tables broadcast throughout are Frankenstein’d; motorcycle auto amalgamate with mid-century tabletops, and duke trucks serve as the aback to dinette chairs. Aloof afore the Faddy aggregation arrived, A$AP Rocky had anesthetized through, aggravating to buy up every allotment of appliance while acrimonious out a Marée Noire arroyo to abrasion out in Paris that night.

Maybe the appliance will go up for auction soon. Maybe Serre will barrage a affairs to buy aback her antecedent division garments. Maybe she’ll alike let barter accelerate in their exceptionable articles for her to transform into article new. The abeyant of what Serre can rebuild, recycle, and charm seems endless. But for now, she’d like to acknowledge a little bit of her action and some of the adventure of her Spring 2020 collection. “After the apocalypse…maybe you try to accomplish a bells dress,” she said, comatose at pieces mashed up from scarves, blankets, wetsuits, and tablecloths.

Watch how she adapted these acclimated abstracts and added into one of Spring 2020’s best acute collections, alone on Vogue’s IGTV, here.

Originally Appeared on Vogue

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